15 - TWELFTH DAY - LIMA TO CHIMBOTE

We received many e-mail asking who writes the blog, is usually the Walter, but today I’m writing, because today we had a bad hair day.
We waited to open the bank to exchange U$150 for soles (334.00). We start road on the route. After traffic Walter ride faster and a police car come and asked to us stoppet, they wanted to impose a fine of 668.00 soles, Walter hates to pay bribes, so I offered S/50 to not retain the bike, the dirty cops wanted more, I gave more S/50, they said that wasn’t good, they wanted S/668, then I asked my money back and said that we don’t had more. They don’t gave me, but leave we go on. Few miles more had a toll (bike not paid), and another cop stopped us, and there were more 40 soles, because we don’t had insurance SOAT.
We passed the whole morning going from bank to bank, to make it and someone told us that the bike and for foreigners only in Lima, we decided to continue without insurance. More 12km and others cops stop saying we were speeding, there was too much! No bribes and even then they released us. Walter rode all the time behind a bus or truck to the cops don’t see us more. Than we were so slow that even our shadow passed us. Imagine having to walk between 70 to 100km per hour on the Pan-American in the desert! The Pacific is our right and left the desert, with montains with several colors like green, earth and yellow with the golden sunset , and to further beautify came a rainbow along the mountains.
With the delay we had in the morning, we ran only 473 kms and arrived in Chimbote at 8PM. Tomorrow we intend to arrive in Piura 550 km from here.

14 - ELEVENTH DAY - NAZCA TO LIMA

Today we rode on Panamerica route, we leave Nazca at 9:30AM to ride 470 kms to Lima.  Soon after Nazca there is a belvedere, where if you pay two soles you can climb and see some of the lines of Nazca. The Panmerican route is a line across the desert, interspersed with some curves, through several cities, where traffic several mototaxis, which are tricycles as "tuc tuc" used in India, blocking traffic, and ride at very low speed. Has some poor houses at marginal highway, if we can call it home, because it is amazing 4(four) square meters (2x2). Anyway, after the beautiful landscape at the Andes, with thousands of curves, these 470 kms it was a piece of cake, we arrived in Lima around 3pm.
We rode 470 km today, and tomorrow we plan to go to Chimbote and Trujillo, will be 500 or 600km.

13- DAY TEN - PUQUIO TO NAZCA

Today we left Puquio to go to Nazca at 8:00 am, we and our new friends the "hermanos" Argentinean, was a beautiful sunny day, perfect 164 kms, almost all on the Andes´s ridge, something divine, near Nasca is an indescribable landscape, photo can´t describe the magnitude of all that. The Argentine friends were driving well, 10:30 am we arrive in Nazca, here we follow differents ways, we'll go to the north and they are coming back by Chile. Today we will sleep here in Nasca, because as everyone knows here are the Nasca lines, which became very popular it from the book  "Chariots of the Gods?" We found a couple of Brazilians Lourdes and Cicero (Cicero a veteran of the motorcycle tourism, who already has three published books ). We rent a plane for four and flew over the Nasca lines. As it was windy, the airplane shook a lot, and  Ula and Lourdes not felt very well, I was recording and Ula was taking  photos, which left much to be desired. As for the look of lines, we had greater expectations.
Today we drove only 170 kms.

12-DAY NINE - CUSCO TO PUQUIO

Last post was only possible now, where we was yesterday (Puquito) has no internet. Let the facts:

We left Cusco at 9am, more adepted to the hight, the goal of the day was Chauluanca, the road trough severals villages. We were at 3000m above sea level and descended a beatiful montain to arrive in Abancancay´s valley.

 After Abancay, the road has many curves beside Chaluanca river, and in this passage a few streams pass over the road, some times the road over and continues some 100 meters later, some areas of collapse, with middle lane blocked, but cool stretch to drive.

We got our goal at 3pm. A bealtiful sunny day, We resolved go away to the next city, more 177kms. We knew that was the beginning of the range again, but 177kms is nothing, so we let.

Curve on the curve, more than 4000m above the sea level, wind, rain and cold. 1,5°C (wind chill of -10°C), fog, and night come. we found 3 Argentines, on two motocycles, a couple in a BMW 800, and one with Falcon, we went together until Puquio, we arrive at night. Conclution: the distance say nothing, there are severals factores that we need thing before take the road.

With expiriense of trough the Andes, this time was the more complete one, we had cold, hail, rain, ice on the runway, fog, slippery road, poor visibility, and a lot of adrenalin.

Here has severals kilometres above 4500 masl.

11 - DAY EIGHT CUSCO

Today we stayed in Cusco, historical city, heritage of humanity. In the region of Cusco are attractions for about three days, but as we've been here on other trips, where we stayed the time for visiting the major archaeological sites, now the parade was over for a rest and get used to the altitude, we just making visits to Koricancha, Sacsayhuaman, Qengo, and Pucapucara Tambomachay. The most interesting is to visit the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu.
We noticed , a significant improvement of the traffic in Cusco, today is fairly normal for a medium sized town, with very different traffic ten years ago, where the preference was for who maked more noise.Last night we had a hell of a headache because of higher and now it seems we have a  hangover. I think we are getting old because we already crossed the mountains dozens of times in different places and this was the worst hangover. Tomorrow will be a big stretch for the ridge, probably will travel 315 km to Chaluanca. 

10 - DAY SEVEN PUERTO MALDONATO TO CUSCO PERU

We woke up early, but the coffee was read at 7:30 pm, we started road at 8:30 pm, low traffic, native forest still preserved (Peruvian Amazon), but the man's presence are at everywhere, specialy near highway, at a stretch, there a lot of miners camps, forming a city of canvas, devastating forests, rivers, mercury using indiscriminate. What means, destruction motivated by the illusion of getting rich overnight, but sub-human conditions.
The road passes through numerous villages, which notes that people still dressed in his typical. In the village of Marcapata, the 3150 m high, we stop the bike and a native came talk and invited us for tea of ​​coca in his home. We accepted. He showed us a notebook with Brazilian’s names whose passed by there. He said "me gustaría mucho, si usted escribes su nombre en mi libro", then our names are in his precious  book. 
Today the monotony of long straight lines were broken, first by the Sierra Santa Rosa, after we crossed the mountain range (tens of curves) where the highest point over 4800 feet above the level of sea. We came from Puerto Maldonado, at a height of approximately 200 meters of sea level, which represents a variation more than 4600 meters, with a consequent variation in temperature at about 40 degrees. And to improve the thermal sensation, got a little rain. 
We are in Cusco, where we stand tomorrow. 
Today we ran 500 km.

9 - DAY SIX- RIO BRANCO/AC TO PTO. MALDONADO/PERU

At the out of the Rio Branco city, we asked if we had wenting at the right way, the man told us “go always in straight line” with a local expression that we never listened before. This roads is just straight lines.

The highway is good. We can ride faster, under the less at Peru, because we was forced to swerved to avoid animals at the way and a infinity of speed breaker. We ride on Interoceanic highway, from Assis Brasil/AC to Puerto Maldonato/Peru, where we slept. The highway is all most read, but don’t has bridge on the Madre de Díos River. The crossing is with little improvised ferryboat, a realy juggling on wood boards, to in and out.
The customs of Iñapari is vary quiet but very slow and bureaucratic, we arive at 12:30p.m. and realased at 4:30p.m., although we was the only ones to enter. Thay was closed from 12:00p.m. to 2:00p.m.

The day was quiet, excellent climate, the predominant livestock in Acre, as in Peru, there are well over forests, which are being exploited without comtrol, there are severaltruckloads of logs down the road.

Today we ran 625km. 

8 - DAY FIVE - ARIQUEMES/RO TO RIO BRANCO/AC

The road was good on this course, except for a 50 Km track. The day started cloudy, then a rain came to join us until Porto Velho and a beaultiful day showed until the arrival on Rio Branco/AC. Today, after more than 3000 Km, we were stopped by officers on the entrance of Acre state, but they only wanted to chat. The police was so glad he found people from Parana he added, "I have a middle brother there, from my father's adventures...", and after some more talking they let us go. Today we had to use a ferry boat on Madeira river, which is very full due to the rains. The ferry was a little high and a tractor provided a bank to boarding so there was a lot of mud to go through, our bike sank but we made it. It was hader for the trucks so we lost almost two hours between the boarding and crossing the river. The landscape today was basicaly pasture with a lot Buritis, with a strech of about 30 Km of flooded land os the sides.

Today we rode 763 Km.

7- DAY FOUR - COMODORO-MT TO ARIQUEMES-RO

The weather is still cloudy, and pleasing warm. The highway is long straight lines yet, but today was  a zigzag traffic  for the holes, specially from Cacoal-RO to Presidente Médici-RO. We had to stop completely, and engage the first gear to go on.  Although the low traffic, we had to drive carefully, a distraction could end up on a fall or a bent wheel . Cars were changing lanes constantly in both sides, and the ones ahead were stopping abruptly. We also were cut every  time we tried to pass other vehicles.

In today’s course, in north of Mato Grosso, there were big crop farms on the left and native forest on the right side. After entering  Rondonia those areas were intensified.

Today we covered 650 Km.  

6- DAY THREE - CUIABÁ-MT TO COMODORO-MT

Monday is really a lazy day! We only left the hotel at 10am. We went ahead to Caceres, good road, low traffic and good weather, low sun and no rain. Everything to a good trip. The landscape to Caceres is basically Cerrado and cattle-raising. After Caceres leading to Pontes and Lacerda there are swampy and Cerrado areas. Leading to Comodoro we crossed native forest, in good conservation, only cut by the road

As the most Mato Grosso state's highways, this one is not exeption, it's just a straight line.

If you go to Cuiaba you must visit the Chapada dos Guimarães, Poconé and the Transpantaneira highway. We had been there previously in anothers trips.

The day was untroubled and we traveled 675km.

5- DAY TWO - CAMPO GRANDE/MS TO CUIBÁ/MT

Today, Sunday, we left at 8a.m. The road from Campo Grande-MS to Mato Grosso state border is very good. Mato Grosso state has a lot of holes. Truck traffic is intense all the highway, especially from Rondonópolis. The rain followed us from Sonora all the way.

In Rondonopolis, in the city access, was formed a runoff that was crossing the track with huge volume of water with a depth of about 50cm, the water came on our knees and the Walter's boots filled of water.

In today's course, it is noted that native vegetation is practically extinct, it was replaced by cattle and corn, sugarcane and cotton, we also noticed a number of ostrich farms, introduced in the area as the habitat belonged to the Ema (Rhea americana), which are seen sporadically in some fields. An excerpt of still preserved native vegetation is the Serra de San Vicente.

Today we rode 752 km.

4- FIRST DAY - ROLÂNDIA/PR A CAMPO GRANDE/MS

As expected, today (04.02.2011) the departure was from churchyard, in Rolândia. Folha de Londrina newspaper as RIC TV were there to record the departure. Our relatives and friends were also there, and our journey to Alaska started. Many friends traveled with us until the Sao Paulo and Mato Grosso do Sul state border, in  Presidente Epitacio city, we had lunch and said goodbye. From there, we went to Campo Grande-MS.

The day was warm and the Sun was ok, it was raining at Nova Esperança-MS. In short, there was 630 km traveled, a good lunch and a happy goodbye.

3- WAITING...

Today, 04.01. One day to departure, last check. We are waiting...